Time In India | Winter

They ate it in the courtyard, the sigri glowing a soft orange between them. The fog was a memory now, but the cold remained. Rohan looked at his father’s tired face, at Amma’s gnarled hands, and at the stars beginning to prick the clear, cold sky.

Rohan considered this. “Then we’d never have to go to school. We’d just eat peanuts and look for shamians —those winter butterflies that come out of nowhere.”

His day began not with an alarm, but with the sharp, sweet smell of burning eucalyptus leaves from the sigri —the small charcoal brazier—that his grandmother, Amma, insisted on keeping in their courtyard. The winter sun, a weak, orange disc, struggled to pierce the fog, offering little warmth but a great deal of beauty. Rohan would reluctantly peel himself out of his layered blankets—a old razai so heavy it felt like a hug—and shuffle to the kitchen, where the sound of Amma grinding spices was the city’s true morning anthem. winter time in india

“It’s going to be colder tomorrow,” his father said, pulling his muffler up again.

A small tin of money was passed around. Rohan’s heart hammered against his ribs. He had no money, but he had his pride. He was rooting for the underdog—the red one. The fight was brutal and short. A flash of feathers, a sharp kick from a blade-tied leg, and a silent, dusty fall. The red bird had won. A collective sigh, then cheers. Kaleem Bhai, laughing, scooped up the winner and offered a free nihari —the slow-cooked stew—to the men who had bet on him. The smell of the stew, rich with bone marrow and winter spices, mixed with the fog, creating a scent that Rohan would remember for decades. They ate it in the courtyard, the sigri

“Beta, chai,” she would say, not as a request, but as a command, pushing a small, chipped cup towards him. The ginger tea, scalding hot and overly sweet, was the antidote to the bone-chill. He’d cradle the cup, warming his fingers, and watch as his father, Mr. Sharma, meticulously wrapped a pink woolen muffler around his neck, over and over, until only his glasses and the tip of his nose were visible.

That evening, as the fog finally began to thin, revealing a pale, tired moon, Rohan returned home. His nose was running, his fingers were numb, but his heart was full. Amma was making gajar ka halwa —the quintessential winter dessert of grated carrots, milk, and sugar, cooked for hours on a slow fire. The kitchen was sticky with its sweet, nutty aroma. His father had returned, his story of a train that had been delayed by fourteen hours earning him the first bowl of the halwa. Rohan considered this

The winter fog over Lucknow was not a mere weather event; it was a presence. It arrived in late December, a thick, woolen blanket that muffled sounds, blurred edges, and turned the familiar city into a watercolor painting left out in the cold. For eleven-year-old Rohan, this was the best time of the year.